Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Shameless plug for Rainier Mountaineering Inc

If you, assuming that you have little to no mountianeering experience like myself, decide that you want to try something like this, I would strongly encourage you to obtain the services of a commercial guide.  Furthermore, I would highly recommend Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.  I've said before that I've never touched an ice axe or crampons before going into this adventure, and I can honestly say that RMI provided the appropriate amount of training and guidance to provide the opportunity for my group not only to reach the summit but also safely descend back down the mountain.

I entitled this entry a "shameless plug" but it is a little more than that.  Here's a specific example:

Right after my group got started from Camp Muir, we encountered several groups on a segment called Cathedral Gap which is a rocky climb between two much larger rocky ridges.  By this time it was about 2 or 2:30 AM and other groups on Cathedral Gap slowed us down a bit, much like the stop-and-go of rush hour traffic.  I could tell our guides were a bit frustrated with the slow pace, and once we reached the slow group, I could tell why.  Their rope between climbers was pretty slack.  One guy had about 5 feet of slack behind him, and it was getting caught on rocks/boulders and he was stepping on it with his crampons.  He was yelling at the lady in front of him to keep going and she was yelling back.  It wasn't pretty.  Being mindful of our training about maintaining proper rope interval (aka keep the slack out of the rope), we zipped right by them in a safe place and went on our merry way.  That whole time I thought "I am so glad I signed up with RMI."

I was the last climber on my rope team and another RMI-led rope team was right behind me.  Right after the slack-rope incident, someone from that troubled rope team hollered to the guide behind me "Hey, is this the way to the DC (Disappointment Cleaver)?".  Guide: "Yep, we're headed that way and you can just follow us."  Now, let me recap.  It's pretty dark at 2:30 AM.  This rope team is struggling to get through a rocky section. They've been on the trail for about an hour or so, and at least one person is wondering if they're going the right way? Seriously? I obviously signed up with a guide service but I still knew landmarks and sections of the climb like Cathedral Gap and the DC.  I admit that I assumed I knew where I was going and it's easy to say that because I was doing the following, but I can guarantee you that if I were going "unguided" that I would know the route forwards and backwards (and have the proper training to boot) before attempting anything like this.  I only assume that these people weren't with a guide.  Not sure which would be scarier--a group of independents not well versed in rope travel or in the route itself, or if the folks were with a commercial guide who didn't provide proper training and who didn't know the route.  Either way sounds like much higher risk for bad news.

Little to no experience?  Don't know anyone you can trust with your life (quite literally) to take you up the mountain?  No problem. Hire RMI!

Monday, July 30, 2012

Day 4 Part 3: Final meeting at basecamp

Once I reached Paradise, I removed my pack and boots with the probably the largest sigh of relief I've ever had.  I had felt the blister forming on my "ring-toe" earlier in the descent but didn't pay much attention to it, it wasn't hurting too badly.  Upon inspection, it covered the second knuckle of my toe.  Others in the group experienced "shin-bang", where upon descent the shins constantly bang against the plastic top of the boots--there are both plastic- and leather-style boots.  Rentals were mainly plastic with a liner inside, a lot like a ski boot.  I think the most unfortunate guy was Will, who will lose several toenails from his feet sliding in his boot and constantly hitting the toe of the boot.  He was walking pretty gingerly when arrived to Paradise.

RMI's climber hangout
The group hopped on the shuttle to Ashford.  On the way, we were informed that there will be a highly informal 'ceremony' to celebrate everybody's efforts over the last couple days.  The only rules:  no showering beforehand, and that there will be beer.  So, lucky for us, RMI has its own little restaurant right there at basecamp (those business people are smart).  The food--pizza, burgers, and other bar food--was pretty good and prices weren't too crazy.  Certificates of achievement were distributed and we all hung out enjoying the company and getting some last minute pictures.


RMI is required to maintain a 3:1 client to guide ratio, thus our group of 8 had 3 guides.  They were all great, and here are pictures of me with the three guides (left) and of my rope team.  Will joined our rope team for a little while higher on the upper mountain for both the climb and the descent.

Josh, Joey, Anne Gilbert, and Mike
Rope team: Joey, Anne Gilbert, and Brad










A little more on the guides and RMI in a following post.

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Day 4 Part 2: The Mandatory Descent

After the adrenaline rush of making it to the summit, reality set in and we once again donned our packs for the 9000 vertical feet of downhill ahead of us.  On the ascent from Muir, we had 4 scheduled stops.  On the descent, we were scheduled for 2: one above the Disappointment Cleaver and one a bit further below it.  Upon departure from the crater rim, I still hadn't eaten much in a few breaks--I had eaten a half a Snickers in the hour on the summit.  Nothing sounded good to eat and it sounded worse when I thought about eating.

The descent was almost as hard as the climb.  It was finally daytime and I didn't get to see much on the way up in the darkness.  Looking around at my surroundings meant that I wasn't watching where I stepped, which translated into slipping and sliding around a little on the snowy route.  At times the descent demanded my full attention, especially where the snow was slushy.  With each step, despite the crampons, my foot continued to slide down the slope and a few times I fell on my rear right on the trail.  I wasn't the only client having these issues, but I didn't see any of the three guides fall once.  On training day our lead guide promised us that he would not fall on this journey and if he did, he'd quit guiding.  Here's a short video of the descent, around 13000-13500 feet, where the snow was packed and descending was easy.



Crevasse near the trail - shadow of Brad in front of me
Climbing in the darkness can be mentally advantageous (and ignorance is bliss) because I couldn't fully appreciate my surroundings on the ascent.  For instance, I don't recall seeing this crevasse on the way up.  Many of you readers might think 'well that's dangerous, being that close to a crevasse and not knowing it'.  Partly true.  Our guides often warned that danger lurks in the darkness and to keep our ropes tight between us and to move swiftly.  Staying on the path was always understood.  These are rules you don't see how far you can push.  I did ask permission to take a picture and was told as long as I keep moving.  Done.  First break was on top of the Disappointment Cleaver.  It was warming up but the cold wind was still blowing.  The guides told us that if we run hot, then go down to a single layer.  My first 2 layers were a little sweaty and I was pretty cold and worried about the cold wind, so I kept 2 on.

The Cleaver was surprisingly a welcomed section for me.  I was growing weary of sliding through the slushy snow trail, and having a solid foundation of rock and bare earth to stand on was delightful.  Below the Cleaver was more slushy snow and I felt the rope teams were really making some time.  My two layers and I was pretty hot and sweaty, and I was getting tired from not eating/drinking enough.  The last break before Camp Muir was miserable.  I drank the remainder of my water (last break before refills), and put the equivalent of a mini-size Snickers in my mouth.  Now, I love Snickers and could probably eat two full bars pretty easy, but I couldn't bring myself to even chew it.  I hated the way it felt in my mouth, I was disgusted.  Knowing I had to eat it for a little boost, it stayed in my mouth for a good 5 minutes before I could start chewing it.  It's now a full week later, if someone gave me a Snickers right now, I'm not sure if I could eat it--maybe give me a couple more days.  My rope leader obviously saw how bad I was and I was pretty grumpy returning her conversation.  She advised me that at the 1-hour pit stop at Camp Muir, I needed "to take 5 or 10 minutes and drink as much as I can and eat if possible.  Don't lay down and rest, instead get the remaining gear in your pack and drink and eat more. If you lay down to rest before packing, all of a sudden you'll have 10 minutes to pack and you won't be ready."  So that's what I did.  I didn't like it at the time, but near the end of the hour break, I actually felt a lot better and was able to eat some trail mix.  I owe her a lot for the tough love and pep talk.

The descent from Camp Muir was the most surprising thing about the trip.  I was actually dreading it. After descending ~4500 feet with 20 pounds on my back, now I had to add another 20 pounds and descend another 4500 feet??  Key differences: no crampons, no ropes, I used trekking poles, and the snowfield was snow, not icy like the glaciers on the upper mountain.  The group got to spread out a little and the snow (and my size 12 boots) allowed me to almost ski down the hill.  I stepped broadly forward and slid about a foot before taking another similar step, using the trekking poles for extra balance. Using fresh snow rather than following other climbers' footsteps was way easier.  Oh, and sliding down the steeper sections helped the descent too!



I did pause near the end of the descent to take one last photo of Mt. Rainier.


This isn't the end of the line.  I still have a couple of stories to tell.  Stay tuned!




Sunday, July 22, 2012

Day 4: Push for the Summit!

12:20 AM:  wake up call.  "You have one hour to get ready!!"

The hot water was already sitting in the hut.  Downed some oatmeal, and yes, another Clif Bar.  Drank almost a full liter of water and hit the bathroom.  The night sky was littered with stars.  I don't recall ever seeing so many stars.  I'm pretty good a picking out a few constellations, but I must say I had a hard time.  One image I'll never forget.  After gearing up, we got separated into our rope teams and away we went across a glacier with only the light of our headlamps and billions of stars.  We climbed up through Cathedral Gap, which lies between two large rock ridges.  The upper mountain climb was much like the trek to Muir with regard to climbing about 1000 feet followed by a rest.  Here, our rest included getting our large parkas on to maintain body temperature in addition to eating and drinking.
The second leg of the climb is known as the Disappointment Cleaver and it was difficult.  It was steep the whole way and rocky in many places.  The steel of the crampons scratched the rock and made terrible sounds, and it also made for difficult footing.  Looking up made the situation worse as I saw how close (but much higher than me) other headlamps were.  It meant more climbing.  "Just keep your head down and keep going."  Another break after the Cleaver was welcomed.
Sometime after the Cleaver, perhaps around 13,000 feet, the sun poked out.  Borrowed this picture from a friend. My hands were cold and I couldn't convince myself to get my ski gloves off to find my camera.  The views were remarkable.
Sunrise at 13000 feet: I knew I could steal a picture from a friend while trying to warm my hands up in my thicker gloves.
The crew at High Break.
Our last break to the summit was at 13,500 feet.  My appetite was pretty suppressed from the altitude.  I didn't have problems drinking, but my 7th Clif Bar in two days was too hard to get down.  I switched to half a Snickers and a PowerBar shot a colleague from work gave me.  The slope ahead was steep and daunting. Again, "just keep your head down and keep going."  Aside from my loss of appetite, I felt good and strong.


On the false summit
After several switchbacks the route went to straight up the hill.  The luxurious footsteps from people ahead of me became few and far between, which meant digging my crampons into the ice and snow became required and climbing became more strenuous and awkward.  In order to dig all my crampons into the slope, my ankles had to bend accordingly.  I tried to avoid having my toes point straight up the slope because it causes calf and hamstring strain, instead, I sort of walked up the hill sideways crossing my feet over one another, a technique learned on the training day.  Disregarding the voices in my head, I kept sneaking peeks uphill and I could see the 'top' of the mountain.  After another 10 minutes or so, my rope team reached the "false summit", or the crater rim.  Rainier is a volcano, and I was standing in (on) the crater.  

Will and Joey
Once my team reached the crater rim, I had a choice to make.  I could either rest for an hour, or make the 40 minute round trip to the true summit, and break up the remaining 20 minutes as rest however I'd like.  It didn't take me long to make the choice.  On the way up to Columbia Crest (the true summit), the logbook is stashed near several large rocks.  The guides were all over us to just write our names to conserve time, but I wrote "Joey Ott - alz".  Another quick couple of minutes and I reached the true summit of Mount Rainier, 14,410 feet above sea level.  Broke for a couple individual pictures, then I got the banner out.  Here's the same picture from the earlier post.

As I unrolled it and while rolling it back up, I read each name aloud.  I did pretty well on the unroll, but while rolling it back up and speaking the names, the whole culmination of effort and preparation, memories of my Grandmother Wilma, and knowing that all others who submitted names feel the same as I do about this disease hit me like a ton of bricks.  I was on one knee when I put the rubber band back on, and I stayed there, sobbing and remembering and praying all at the same time.  I'm not sure how many minutes I was there, but for those moments I was frozen in time.  Josh the guide came over to me and told me that we did a great thing.  Much later that day, I had to apologize to him for "Tebow-ing" on the summit.  : )

Those who know know that climbing a mountain is only half the battle.  There's a cliche in mountaineering that summiting is optional and getting down in mandatory.  The mandatory story will be shared soon.

Day 3: Ascent to Muir

Note: for a better view of all pictures, click on them and you'll get a bigger shot!

We hopped on the RMI shuttles around 8:00 AM in Ashford WA and they took us up to our starting point in Paradise, Washington (elevation ~5400 feet).  We hit the trail around 9 AM with our boots (no crampons) and hiking poles.  In the beginning there was more bare earth and rock than snow on the trail.  Pebble Creek is about the halfway point to Camp Muir from both distance and elevation gain points of view.
Mt Rainier from Pebble Creek
Above Pebble Creek, the trail turned into all snow all the way.  As a team, we hiked up the Muir Snowfield in single file, trying to walk in each other's footsteps to make the trek easier.  Slogging through the snow, gaining about 1000 feet between 15 minute breaks.  Breaks consisted of getting that 40-45 lb pack off, taking a seat on it, drinking a half a liter, and eating a few hundred calories.  My snacks consisted mostly of cold pizza and Clif bars.  I did sneak a picture of the view that I saw most of the way up.
Just trying to focus on hitting the footsteps and trying to find that rhythm.
Finally after several hours of trekking through the snow, we could see Camp Muir.  The little speck in the snow to the right is a guy, and you can see Muir just above him.  Click the picture to make it bigger if necessary.  Despite loving the sight of High Camp, it still looked a long ways away.  Kept the head down and kept walking!
Click the pic, Camp Muir is down and to the right of the large rock right of center.
It was a sight for sore eyes, but not much to look at.  The views were way better than the camp itself.  Nabbed these picture before the rain/freezing rain and thunder started.  The thunder was literally right outside our door.
Standing on our front porch, 10,060 feet above sea level, with stinky socks drying on the line.

Our neighbors in the stone hut.
Once we got at Camp Muir, we got to eat and drink as much as we wanted.  Supper for me was another piece of cold pizza, yet another Clif Bar, some "calorically dense" trail mix, and a Snickers.  That's a lot, but I knew I had to choke down as much as I could to fill up the tank for the next day.  I also somehow guzzled about a liter and a half of dilute Gatorade.  During dinner and unpacking, the guides gave us a synopsis of what to expect on the next day.  After making my "bed" and organizing a bit, I packed up for the next day and tried to rest/sleep with about 15 of my new friends.  Earplugs are gold in Camp Muir.  I was a bit worried about the weather, but tried to clear my head as best as possible.  And then there's the months-long building anticipation for the summit bid in the back of my head.  Resting was difficult, but I did manage to doze off a few times.  The goal for the day (per the guides) was to get to Muir and to feel good.  Mission accomplished.  'Go back to sleep, you need to rest!'


Saturday, July 21, 2012

One more day

From Joey: Sorry I know you all are waiting to see all sorts of pictures and stories, meanwhile I'm trying to unpack and get organized.  We will be speaking to the Daily Journal (Franklin paper) in a couple of days and the Indy Star may do a story as well.  I will update the blog starting tomorrow (Sun 22-Jul) evening so please stay tuned over the next week or so!

For Marvin

We climbed for Marvin who gave "64 years of pleasant memories from a grateful family"
We hope our effort provided inspiration and brought back great memories for his family.  

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

From Jenothy

Its hard to capture all that I am feeling right now. For those who have not heard yet, I did not Reach the summit! Part way up, I had to make a heart breaking and gut wrenching decision to turn around...at that point and with tears in my eyes, I handed our "climb to remember" banner over to Joey, who I am so very proud and excited to say took it all the way to the top!!! And so although this trip did not turn out quite like I had hoped, it was a wonderful opportunity and I honored to have been a part of it! Please stay tuned as I am sure once we are more rested and go through pictures, we will have more to add! Thank you again for all you support and prayers.

And here it is!

EDIT:  I've had a few questions...this is on the summit!

More to come.  Very tired.  Need to pack for flight home tomorrow.

I think if you click on the photo, you can see a larger version.

Monday, July 16, 2012

The Final Banner!

Here it is, folks.  We thank you for contributing your loved one's name.  We pray that we can honor them and all other Alzheimer's sufferers by completing this adventure.  Furthermore, we hope that any money and awareness that we have raised can have some sort of difference in the fight against Alzheimer's.
How big is this thing?  That boot is size 12!

Day 2: Mountaineering Training Day

We met at basecamp at 8 and waited for the guides to finish up a quick guide meeting.  Took the opportunity for a quick pose in front of our guide service's sign.

They shuttled us and our gear up to Paradise, elevation ~5200 feet.  From there we hiked about 45 minutes up to ~6100 feet to a lower snowfield ideal for the training.
Yes, the camera is pointing up
Our day was spent learning and practicing several mountaineering techniques for safety, rescuing, and climbing efficiency.  Examples include team arrest positions, how to self-arrest with our ice axe, climbing in the snow/ice with crampons, and special breathing techniques.  We also practiced team rope ascents and descents.  Here's Jenothy sliding headfirst down a slope getting ready to stop herself by using a self-arrest method we learned.
Better stop before that crevasse just outside the picture frame!

After all the training, 2 of the 3 guides (facing the picture), reminded us that tomorrow's focus is NOT the summit, but to get to Camp Muir and feel good.  He advised to take care of ourselves not only tonight, but also with every step and rest break we take on the way to Muir.  
Nice shot of Rainier in the background, still not much justice here.  It's big.

Reminder that once we leave tomorrow, there will not be any posts until Wednesday night (if we can function!).  So stay tuned!

Sunday, July 15, 2012

For Raymond

We are climbing for Raymond and add his name to the banner we will carry with us throughout our climb. Raymond's daughter shared the following about her father: everything was special about him; wonderful husband, father, and grandfather who loved the outdoors and would be so pleased to know that he is somehow a part of this special event!

For Carol

On his way to Seattle, the folks sitting next to Joey on the plane were very impressed, touched and excited that we were not only climbing Mt. rainier, but that we had connected our climb to such a great cause - alzhiemers research. By the end of the flight they asked us to remember their friend Carol. And so, with great honor and joy we climb also for Carol and add her name to our banner that we will carry with us on the climb.

Day 1: Gear Check and a little more

Reminder:  we are 3 hours behind of our followers in Indiana.  Just finished our dinner, and we try to get our posts up as quickly as possible.

Day 1:  With gear rentals starting at noon and Gear Check at 3 PM, we took the morning to drive up to Paradise (basecamp, elev. ~5200 ft) to see what we could see.  As you can see, you saw as much of Mt Rainier today as we did at that time.
A bit foggy in Paradise

On the way back, the sun did pop out and gave us a teaser glimpse of The Mountain.
Yeah, we're gonna climb that.


We then loaded the gear we brought and took off to the outfitter for rentals, intros, and orientation.  We met our lead guide and the rest of our climbing group.  Here's both of us with all our gear laid out for consultation with the guide.  Thankfully, he saved each of us some space and at least a couple pounds.
How is all this gonna fit?
Now where did I put that ice axe?
The anticipation is building.  We are spending the evening packing our gear and food for tomorrow's training.
8 AM start for tomorrow's training class on the lower snowslopes of Rainier ~6500 feet.  Stay tuned for tomorrow!

Thank you all for your continued prayers and support for us and the Alzheimer's Association!

--Joey and Jen

Saturday, July 14, 2012

Excursion to our Basecamp

So everyone and there luggage and gear arrived without too much hassle.  Seattle in July is very nice, but clouds prohibited us from seeing The Mountain from downtown.  On our way in, I grabbed this shot out the window.
Look closely through the clouds in the center of the photo.  Picture really doesn't do it justice!
For now we are trying to relax and hydrate as much as possible.  Tomorrow we start activities.  In the morning we'll try to hit the Park Visitor Center for some touristy stuff, then head to the outfitter to shift focus to gear.  Will keep you posted, and we can take names for the banner up to Monday evening.  E-mail them to otter_sports@yahoo.com.

From Jenothy

After a long day, we re now in Ashford at "the lodge" we will call home for the next few days! It's beautiful here in Washington state! Loving the green, lush landscape and feeling at home among the pine trees! The drive down from Seattle reminded me a great deal of northern Wyoming, and I must admit, my heart took a giant leap at the sight of the mountains!! We are

It's Already Been an Adventure!!

After a four hour delay and 6 gate changes, I am on the next leg of the journey to Seattle! Now it's time for a Snack and nap! Thank you all for your prayers and support! We should be on the ground in Seattle 2:30ish Indiana time!

Thursday, July 12, 2012

We are climbing for Audra

We are climbing in memory of Audra, my wife's Great Grandmother.  We are adding her name to the banner for the photo of at the summit.  It is our hope that our climb will honor and celebrate the life she lived.

Thanks and keep them coming.  We'll be taking names through the afternoon of Monday July 16!

Climb / Trip Schedule

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

For HELEN K.

We are climbing for Helen - Grandmother of a dear friend and colleague.  Her name will be added to the banner and carried to the summitt.

For Eleanor "Mammaw"

We are climbing for Eleanor - My (Jenothy's) husband's grandma who passed away in 2011 and had struggled many years with Alzhiemers.  I remember her smile and funny little giggle and the way she loved her oatmeal, ice cream and cookies!  She always "lit up" when her grand children came to visit or the family gathered together.  Eleanor's name will be added to the banner that we will carry on our hike and to the summit.  Thank you to her daughter for honoring her this way and supporting our climb.

For Leland:

We are climbing for Leland, retired pastor and loving husband who currently battles Alzhiemers.  Since the first time I met Leland at church, he has always been very kind and shared a wonderful sense of humor.  He has a great smile and tender eyes.  My heart and prayers go out to his wife and family.  His name will be placed on our banner and carried to the summit for the photo opp! 

For Helen S.:

We are climbing for Helen - her name will be added to the banner we plan to carry to the summit.  Thank you to her daughter for her donation and support of our project.  Blessings

For George:

We are climbing for George, pastor and beloved husband who struggled many years with Alzhiemers before his passing.  His name will be added to the banner we carry to the summit and we will remember and honor his life and family.

We are climbing for: Arlo

We are climbing in memory of Arlo, a friend's Great Grandfather.  We are adding his name to the banner for the photo op at the summit!  It is our hope that our climb will honor and celebrate the life he lived.  
Keep the names coming, there's still time!

We are climbing for Wesley ("Pop")

We are climbing in memory of Wesley ("Pop"), a friend's Great Grandfather. The contributor writes: "Wesley "Pop" was a man of many great stories. He was a carpenter by trade.  He enjoyed fishing and his family. He was a father, stepfather, grandfather, great grandfather and the beloved husband to my great grandmother Georgia."  
We are adding his name to the banner for the photo op at the summit!  It is our hope that our climb will honor and celebrate the life he lived.  


Thanks and keep them coming--there's still time!

Thursday, July 5, 2012

Counting down

A sweaty 'Yours truly'  on the summit
with a little shameless advertising
Coincidentally, the family vacation destination proved to be a great opportunity to get in some last minute training.  Lake Lure, NC is tucked away in the mountainous, western part of the state.  After looking around online for some trails, I discovered that the highest point east of the Mississippi, Mount Mitchell, was a mere 42 miles away.  At 6684 feet, it's not quite Rainier, but a great way to put my training to the test with a ~5.7mi climb and 3600ft of elevation change.  The wife accompanied me on the rocky trail that really wasn't suited for grand views on the way to the summit.  We knew what was in store for us on the summit:  a bit of an anticlimactic feeling due to the paved walkway where kind folks walked ~200 feet from their cars.  Not a knock against these people, more of a 'why did I just go to all that trouble' thing.  Did see an elderly ex-Marine with a cane in each hand struggling to get to the top.  I hope to inspire people with this Rainier climb, but I will say that seeing this man inspired me, and also justified having the "easy" path to the summit.


The official marker



Wonder if they have something like this on the summit of Rainier?

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

We are climbing for ELDA

We are climbing for Elda, grandmother of a friend from church.  We are adding her name to the banner for the photo op at the summit!  It is our hope that our climb will honor and celebrate the life she lived.  We pray also it will help support and provide hope for better treatments.  Here's to Elda! 

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

The Day Draws Near!

JENeral Comments - Thirteen days and counting!!  Spent the last few weeks getting comfy in my pack; wearing it for longer and longer periods of time, doing a little "urban hiking" along the Greenway Trail and around the High School walking path, AND getting a few odd looks here and there!  That, along with some jazzercise and running, I hope to feel strong come trip time!

Thank you all who have made a donation and continue to follow our blog.  I have been truly touched by your testimonies and sharing.  I feel honored to carry the names of loved ones on our climb.